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2009: Another Year of Travel

12/29/2009

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It's that time again.

To say it feels like yesterday when I was summing up 2008 would be a tad bit cliche and understated. And this time next year will come even faster than this. Life, please. Slow down just a little so I can catch my breath.

Well, 2009 had a difficult take-off, but once it was in the air, it got good. It got really good. Let me begin with the beginning.

I rang in the new year by falling asleep just minutes after 2009 made its first appearance. Watching the clock tick from my shitty Chinese Nokia whilst sitting on a stool at Chali ba, I got drowsy and just wanted to pass out. I wasn't even that drunk. Fortunately, Chali ba can be very accommodating to those craving rest, so I found the couch in the back den and camped out in my oversize black coat, falling fast asleep until Misha woke me up at 4 am. I was so groggy, disappointed with myself that I could feel this tired on a day when I should feel energized. Truthfully I was sad to see it end. 2008 was a great year, one of the best years I've ever had, so I was hesitant to welcome the change. 

So my rockin' new year's eve wasn't so rockin'. However, I did manage to take some exciting trips very soon after 2009 hazily began.

My trip to Hong Kong was fabulous. Three days of unadulterated do-whatever-the-fuck-I-want-to-do-when-not-handling-visa-shit in one of the most fascinating cities I've ever been to. I dined, I tasted, I walked for miles. The best experience was the vegetarian restaurant, which turned my dislike for Indian food to pure love. Each corner of the city felt like a different country, in just three days I felt like I traveled the world. If I decide to return East, Hong Kong is surely on the top of my list of places I'd like to call home for a bit.

The day after I returned home to Baoding felt like my New Year's Day. All my work was done, grades were turned in, everything was complete so I could do what I wanted for the next month. I miss the crazy vacation time I had in China. That was fabulous. It got boring sometimes, with nothing to do, but now I'd do anything to have that time off now that I'm in Spain. My Xi'an excursion with Lee and Slava was a hilarious adventure. They are some of the best travel companions a girl could ask for. We dined on sushi, we brought an empty dance floor to life, we nicknamed a Terra Cotta warrior "Chester Cotta Warrior" and my Furby voice still echoes among us whenever we get the chance to talk. Xi'an felt like being in a treehouse with two silly playmates making Panda faces at one another. And oh, how could I forget the two of them pawning me off to the microphone so I could sing for free beer? Watching the two of them puke back to back after drinking leftover Baiju was a Mastercard moment. Thankfully, I was in the clear.

Springtime in China was weird. I was happy to experience warmer climate, but it brought about strange sensations that I'm not normally used to during that time. Usually I feel a boost of energy and gladness for the color and rebirth of flowers, scents and the lifting of a heavy winter mood. However, this time it was different. The newness of China had worn off completely and I was starting to experience real homesickness. An upside was the purchase of Figaro, my blue road bike. He made traveling around town more enjoyable than Claudio did. But I still fought the blues a lot more than I did in the winter. 

I impulsively played an April Fool's Day prank that led to a girl more or less hating me. After, the month took a serious nosedive. My mom got really, really sick. In fact, she flirted with death. I felt really helpless being so far away. She had double pneumonia and was stuck in a shit hospital that had no clue what they were doing. That sucked. I got into an altercation with another friend that left me feeling really hurt and disillusioned. The only glimmer of goodness from that shitty month was Alex Woolner. I had always liked her but I truly recognized her greatness during a moment of despair, hence lifting me out of that 30 day torture and jump-starting May to a mere decent.

I traveled to Shanghai in May, but truthfully I didn't like it all that much. The Bund is like a fancy tablecloth hanging off the side of a gloomy town. Something in me shifted, it was like I stepped into an invisible ball of black energy, and I was filled with hatred for so many things. I decided to spend the extra money on a first class sleeper. As soon as I got on the train to return to Beijing, my mood instantly lifted. It was definitely a bipolar moment, going from miserable to jubilant while exiting the city. I don't know why, but I just was not fond of it.

During the last weeks of school, I really bonded with my students. Some of them were little shits but the majority were so sweet and caring and innocent. I'm so grateful my first year of teaching was spent with them. The last week was especially fun, playing picture time with them all. They love to pose, flashing two fingers of victory in every single shot. I miss them, and I'm dedicating ANOMIE to them once it's signed sealed and delivered.

2009 took a turn for the best on my birthday. It was my favorite birthday ever. I've had bad luck in the past with throwing parties. Either no one shows up or they do and shit gets stolen. But this year, I was leaving China two days later, as well as others, and it would be the last time I'd see many folks, so I coordinated a party at a restaurant the Russians like to hold birthday bashes at. I invited 25 people and 24 showed up. It was brilliant. The serenade of different countries toasting in their respective languages was both awesome and humbling. I was filled with so much love that by the end of it I was crying. Here, I had been so damn homesick then all of a sudden I wasn't ready for it to end. My two days were filled with tears. Saying goodbye to Misha, to Alex, to Lee Yusi Megan John Julie Luna Chali Dauchin Yang Yang and Kim, dearest Kim, she rode with me all the way to the airport while I cried and laughed at what a fucking strange and fabulous year it had been in the big fat Red. And just like that, it was all over.

Well, it ended rather slowly, the very last day. My flight was delayed six hours and the school already got me there six hours in advance, so I wound up waiting 12 hours in the Beijing airport until I finally took off. But I slept like a baby for the very first time on an airplane. AirCanada is the best airline I've flown to date.

Coming home was a bit strange. I was filled with stories eager to be told yet I couldn't seem to find the outlet. It wasn't that no one was interested, but they couldn't really relate. Like my mom, for example. That took some time getting used to. Leigh Anne got me a badass present for my birthday- two tickets to Sonic Youth. SO good. She always gets the best presents. That was a good way to ease into being home. That, and a few good trips to Valdosta to visit old friends and hang with Colleen. I taught Mike, Kari and Cliff some Chinese. Some good, dirty slang Chinese. Niobi. That felt really good.

My original plan was to move to Atlanta. Then it changed to Jacksonville, then St. Augustine. Then I realized my momentum was there to keep trotting the globe, and it was of no use to stop now. So I decided to come to Spain.

My first day was an adventure, to say the least. I didn't sleep at all the night before, instead I spent the wee hours packing my bags and talking on the phone with my good friend Matt. On the plane I didn't sleep much at all, so arriving to Madrid I was a bit winded and my Spanish was buried underneath the Chinese I gathered from the year. The man at the train kiosk was such a dick, unlike most Spanish people. "You need to learn Spanish," he said coldly as I winced my way through getting a ticket to Granada. There are so many things I could've said but I was too exhausted to retort. I got on the train and watched the countryside roll past me with a sunset that artists would marvel at. My arrival to Granada was when things got, well, interesting.

First, my taxi ride. This was my first experience in Spain of really having to retrieve the Spanish I knew. I had no clue where I was going, just an address. All my technology was dead, batteries empty and no electrical adapter to charge them with. I couldn't get back into my email to find the correct address of the residencia I was supposed to stay in, only to the school where I'd get my TEFL degree four weeks later. So the cute little taxi driver and I stumbled our way through a conversation, and I was surprised I was able to communicate even that much, considering I was going on no sleep. He led me to the school then drove away, and I stood at the green doors with my heavier than hell suitcase, bowling ball of a backpack and eyelids like anchors. And no one answered. I was, well, fucked. And this was at 11 pm.

A group of Polish miracles appeared from the intersecting alley, noticing immediately that I looked lost. I was having a difficult time remaining coherent. "Come with us," they said as they gripped my bags and began walking down the alley. "You can stay with us and figure it all out tomorrow." What a fucking relief. I can't even begin to express my gratitude for that fateful blessing. We walked up the road and one girl pointed in the right direction. "Look, it's the Alhambra." I turned around and gasped, then looked away. I just wasn't capable of absorbing it. I needed rest so I could feel enthusiastic and breathless like I did days later when I got to really sit there and stare at it. Breathtaking is the absolute best way to describe a monument like the Alhambra. 

The Polish clan and I went out for tinto de veranos in this small bar off the beaten path. I really took to Malgorzata, a delightful girl who wants to visit the States some day. I told her--I promised her--that if she makes it there and I'm there too, I'll do whatever I can to extend my hand and help make her experience a good one. Because if it weren't for her and her friends, my first night in Europe would've been me sitting on cobblestone, clutching my bags and waiting for daylight, only to still not know what was next.

I found my way the next day, and enjoyed my first night of a proper bar hop in Spain with three guys. I sort of felt like a pimp, for I more or less found each of them a woman by the end of the night. Apparently I got in a fight with a wall on the way back to the residencia, but this is arguable. My toe was caked with dried blood the next day when I woke up--at 3:45 in the afternoon. Then the TEFL course began. 

Oh the mindfucks. The lesson plans. The oh so fun finishes. Overall I enjoyed the experience but I was really glad it was over. In four weeks I was excited, frustrated, humbled, delirious, pissed and pleased. I experienced my first Spanish kiss on a Saturday night out for salsa and it was fantastic. An absolute work of art, from the beginning to the end. I'll never forget that kiss, never ever.

I developed really sound friendships during the course, especially Ashley, Amanda, Tom and Roisin. I learned more British English than I did Spanish in Granada, which was mildly detrimental for immersion. After the course was finished, I had two weeks with my dad and stepmom so we traveled around Andalusia. I ate so many friggin' olives. They're the absolute best here.

I landed a job interview in Madrid for a position in Zaragoza. I got the job, then lost it, then got it again. For the full version, read the entry. Anyway, I packed my bags and said Adios to Granada, then headed to Zaragoza. Halloween is not my favorite time of year. Those close to me understand why, and it was particularly difficult this time around because I didn't know anyone in Zaragoza and felt really alone. To make matters worse, some money was stolen from me. Not a lot, but enough to make me feel unwelcome in such an unfamiliar place. I licked my wounds, then found an apartment on the 14th floor of a building overlooking the city. 

November was a difficult one. Not as bad as April but it still sucked. Learning to adjust was taking longer because this was the first time in my life I moved somewhere with no base of friends or boyfriend waiting for me. It's also a lot more difficult to meet people in Zaragoza than it is in Granada. Loneliness dutifully describes November but it was followed by a fabulous month of December, one I'm sad to see finish in just a couple of days.

The company Christmas party was absolutely fantastic. The food was magnificent, the conversations were light-hearted and hysterical. It felt so good to be a part of it. I spent a lot of hours teaching folks in the army and they were truly a pleasure to teach. I've become so much more comfortable in my teaching style and I'm starting to establish relationships with co-workers. The 'hellos' have extended to 'how's your day' to jokes ridden with sarcasm in both Spanish and English. I like everyone and I'm pretty sure they like me too. This is a definite perk with any job.

For the first time in years, I've had some excellent holidays! My mom came to visit and she's still here as I type this excruciatingly long entry. I met her down in Benalmadena, then we went to Malaga and had the best sangria. After two days in Malaga, we came to Granada-my turf. Today we had a delicious meal alongside the Alhambra. New Years will be spent in Zaragoza, and it's looking like it's going to be a very lucky New Year's. I'll divulge more later. 

More than just travel, 2009 was about growing up. I entered it unsure about everything and I'm leaving it feeling confident and more aware of who I am as an adult. I understand my weaknesses more and am less willing to criticize them because they're a part of me. For some, what makes them such weaknesses is my idea that they are weaknesses. When I change the way I look at them, they become less harsh and I feel better about everything. I've developed a love for cooking and I'm good at it. I finished my songs for my second album. My Spanish is improving every day and I'm a working adult in a beautiful city with some of the strongest winds you'd ever experience.

My resolutions for 2010? Don't laugh, but primarily to embrace my femininity. I'm 28, going on 29. This is my prime. I want to fully enjoy being a woman since I'm no longer a kid. This means wearing beautiful clothes and walking with confidence. This means surrounding myself with good friends and sharing laughter. This means looking a man dead in the eye and knowing he sees a strong, capable woman. Because that's how I feel, so different than when I woke up in that groggy haze at 4 am on New Year's Day. 

Goodbye 2009. You were complicated but worth it. And as for the decade, I experienced some truly bipolar events I could write a book about, which I intend to do sooner or later, as long as I can make it interesting enough for others to read. That's my goal for the next decade, to publish a book. We'll see what happens. With just a touch of salt, life has been good to me.
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Traveling Panda

2/4/2009

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Ni hao, readers. Sorry it has been so long since I've posted. I thought I'd have lots of time to blog during the break but I've been MIA, seeing the world.

My school flew me to Hong Kong a couple of weeks ago so I could get a new visa. I stayed for three days. When I wasn't at the visa office, I was exploring one of the most intriguing cities I have ever been to.

When I first arrived at the airport, I stood in awe of the beautiful green mountains and the sparkling ocean. It reminded me of Maui. The air was considerably warmer than Baoding, in the low 60's and slightly humid. I love humidity, as it is good for your skin. Ditching the heavy coat and putting on my fall jacket added ease and clarity.

I had booked a reservation at the Dragon Hostel in Mong Kok. On the bus, I entered the city, which transformed itself from Maui to San Francisco. Do you remember the game Taipei? Each puzzle piece has a character on its face, and they are gathered in a small pile, and you select two matching pieces that are fully uncovered. This game reminds me of Hong Kong streets, where buildings are stacked to the sky, characters glowing and buzzing, letters spelling multiple languages for this diverse environment. The sounds are intense, the street walk signs rattle and tick as though they are pushing the pace of pedestrians and taxis. The girls are little Asian dolls, you can see the experience in their eyes unlike many of the Chinese girls I see in Baoding. Their boyfriends walk along side them, holding their shiny bags for them.

Hong Kong is complex, slightly confused in its own identity. I had exchanged my yuan for Hong Kong dollars at the airport and turned my phone off since I had no reception. It is very expensive there. Alex had lent me her Lonely Planet book for the trip, a tool I was the most grateful for as it guided me throughout the city in my three days' stay.

This was my first real trip if you exclude my various runs to Beijing. I decided to go all out and do whatever the hell I wanted. I brought enough of my salary to really enjoy myself and not worry about getting stuck. Truthfully I'm not the most interested in museums and statues, for they are usually designed to appear a certain way and are directed at tourists. My favorite way of exploring a new territory requires using my sense of taste.

The first restaurant I went to was Pak Bo, a vegetarian restaurant in Mong Kok. The sign outside the restaurant said, "This is a vegetarian restaurant. Please do not bring any meat inside." Perfect. Why can't more restaurants like this exist? The dish was pretty decent, I got the sweet lilly bulb with fake pork. The staff was extremely friendly, each one took his turn catering to me as I sat there eating and reading Lonely Planet. I thanked them earnestly and went about my adventure.

I made it a point to go to bed early so I could fully enjoy the next day. I ate some sashimi at a place near the visa office, then had some of the best dumplings at a Northeastern Chinese restaurant closeby. I sat at a round table with four strangers in this busy, busy place. Once again, the staff was so friendly. The hostess at this place was a peach. After, I stepped in next door to a pub and had my first Boddington's in well over a year. I met a man who reminded me of Ray Charles. He was originally from Seattle and had been living in Hong Kong for 16 years. He was a musician who played for a living, piano primarily. His voice was throaty, smoky like the bars he probably played at. I told him I was originally from Austin and he got really excited, then pointed to his friend who was also from there. He bought me another round then gave me his card if I ever wanted to listen to him play. He put on Nina Simone on the juke for me and then I left.

I didn't have that much luck shopping, even though HK is recognized for one of the best places to buy things. Truthfully it is very difficult to shop for clothes in Asia because everything is considerably smaller. It's not just my problem, almost all westerners deal with this. At Adidas stores you will see a note on the tags that say something to the effect of "Asian-sized," so you may as well give up. It's okay though, sometimes I find luck and am able to fit into certain things but for the most part I just don't bother. I bought presents for people and myself a bottle of delicious perfume.

Later that evening I decided to branch out and go somewhere I would not normally go- an Indian restaurant. I've never been a huge fan of Indian food, but this place had a great review in the Lonely Planet and it was also a vegetarian joint. Banto (or Branto?) was the name and it was sort of a bitch to find. There was a mess of things in this hallway, you would've thought you were trying to get into someone's apartment since there was no entrance right off the street. At first I was worried I was at the wrong place. But I followed three Indian men toward the spot and walked inside.

Holy shit. This was the best meal I had in a LONG time. No joke. I had a mushroom dish I can't even pronounce and I ate every single bite, trying not to moan outloud. It was fantastic. After, it was time to find the German Biergarten, then maybe the wine bar, and I knew I wanted to find the Siberian Ice Bar so I'd have a story to tell my Russian when I got home.

The Biergarten was okay, I had a pint then a glass of German white wine. Decided to move on and find the Siberian Ice Bar since the wine bar was in a hotel and I wasn't in the mood to go that fancy...yet. It took me over an hour to find the Russian joint. I kept taking wrong turns by foot, only to discover it was in the richest, most touristy section of Hong Kong. Oh well, I had made it this far, I was determined to at least look at it. It turned out to be this small room set to -20 C full of vodka bottles. An Asian woman was in there with her sig other, wearing a huge fur coat. It didn't feel like -20. It felt like 5. This was lame. I quietly excused myself and snuck next door to an oyster bar. Had the most expensive oysters I've ever tasted and a long-desired glass of champagne. It was delicious. Exhausted from all the walking I had done all day, I took a cab back to Mong Kok and crashed out.

The next day I received my visa, yet another visitor visa with only one entry to China, so once I flew back from Hong Kong I'd have no entries left. Kind of sucky if I want to travel outside the country and return. Chinese visas are a pain in the ass.

I walked all around Soho and it felt like Europe. Brits everywhere in their business casual suits walking with cell phones attached to their ears on their lunch breaks, following with the hustle of the city. I was determined to find Life, another vegetarian restaurant in the area, for lunch. I wound up at Good Luck, a Thai restaurant, but decided on a Singha beer since the menu was loaded with meat. I then continued on my way and finally found Life.

I sat beside a couple, the woman was American and the man must have been British. I did not talk to them but I eavesdropped their conversation. The woman had THE most bland, monotone voice I had ever heard. It was so frustrating to hear her talk. Totally snobby. How does this man like being around her? She ordered celery juice (because she had been craving celery juice all day) then when she discovered there was fruit in it, this became a huge issue since the waitress did not tell her the juice had fruit in it. "We need to cancel it then," she told the waitress with her cold, uninterested stare. Celery juice? And who can't eat fruit?

After Life, I walked to the pier and took a ferry to Macao. Got my passport stamped and entered another country for a couple of hours. Macao is a bit strange. It's a popular place for tourists to go blow cash at casinos. It has its own currency but they do accept Hong Kong dollars. This was good because HK currency was all I had when I took a taxi from the airport/ferry to town. I walked around, looking at the buildings and wishing I had arrived sooner. I really wanted to see some of the Portugese ruins, as Macao's history is heavily Portugese. The sun was starting to set and it was not seeming as simple to walk around and find things to do (other than gamble) like it was in Hong Kong. So I decided to sail back. My feet were very sore, I wanted something to eat and a place to rest before I had to be up early the next morning to catch my plane. I went out for sushi & sake then walked next door and had some champagne. A British man noticed my cracked iPhone and then showed me his. We decided my crack was better since I dropped it on the Great Wall instead of some bathroom like he did.

Here are some pictures from Hong Kong.





Here are some pictures from the island of Macao.





When I arrived back to Baoding, it was nearing time for the Chinese New Year and Spring Festival. I've always been a bit of a pyromaniac, so China suits me quite well in this regard. Chinese people LOVE fireworks, far beyond any capacity I've witnessed before. It sounded like World War 3 outside on the day of the New Year. I soon discovered another thing Misha and I have in common- he's a pyro, too. So needless to say, we bought plenty of firecrackers and threw them along the street with my friend Slava. Here are more pictures.



During the week of Spring Festival, Slava, Lee and I decided to take a 12-hour train to Xi'an, China. We stayed at the traveler's hostel that is the same company as the one in Beijing I always stay at. It was really nice. I felt like I was in a treehouse. There was a dog named Terra roaming around, with the softest fur. I miss big dogs, all the dogs here are short and stubby. Terra was a golden retriever.

Once we got settled in, we walked all over Xi'an.

















That last picture of me was when Lee, Slava and I were at a sushi restaurant in Xi'an. Needless to say, I was pleased as punch. Nearby at a booth were two Australian dudes. They were also staying at our hostel. One guy got super loaded, it was entertaining to watch.

During our stay, we went to see the Panda Rescue Center and the Terra Cotta Warriors. The Panda Rescue Center was far more enjoyable than any zoo. Truthfully I do not like to go to zoos because I hate seeing animals caged up for human entertainment. There were other animals, such as the Golden Monkey. I got to feed him. He was my favorite. Slava said I looked like him since he had blue coloring around his eyes and I am fond of blue eyeshadow. Here are more pics from the Rescue Center.











The Terra Cotta Warriors museum was okay. Apparently it's the Eighth Wonder of the World. Dad, aren't you proud I went to a museum?







Slava and I took a 22-hour slow train back to Baoding, everything else was booked. However, this time we had sleepers so the ride actually seemed shorter than the 12-hour seat getting to Xi'an. I highly recommend sleepers.

I'm considering another trip before school starts at the end of the month. Maybe another Shanghai attempt? Shanghai is the Manhattan of China, so I better come prepared financially. We'll see. I'll keep you posted.

Happy Chinese New Year! Thanks for reading, please leave me comments if you like.

xoxo
MISU

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    lawd knows i like to ramble. thanks for reading.
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